If you’ve read our ‘about’ page, you’ll already
know that we moved to the Dordogne in 2012.
As a result, we’ve been able to explore the
length and breadth of this incredible region
and have plenty of information on things to do
in the Dordogne which we’ll share with you.
Châteaux, history, prehistory, gastronomy,
diverse experiences, culinary experiences,
thrill-seeking, action, adventure – you name it,
we’ve got it!
The Dordogne – referred to as the Périgord by
the French – is located in South West France
and is made up of 4 different sub-regions: the
Périgord noir (highest concentration of tourist
sites), the Périgord pourpre (think ‘wine’), the
Périgord vert (nature) and the Périgord blanc
(chalky limestone). From prehistoric times to
the One Hundred Year War, this region is
steeped in history. As the majority of tourist
sites are concentrated in the Périgord noir,
we’ll be predominantly focussing on this area.
In This Post You
Will
Find:Visit a château
You can’t come to the Dordogne and not visit a
château – it is the land of 1001 châteaux after
all! I’ll never forget one of our first visits to the
area when it seemed like a château popped up
at every turn in the road. The scenery still
blows me away. So here are some of the best
ones that you should include in your
Dordogne itinerary:
Château de Castelnaud
The stunning Château de Castelnaud, ( click
here for English language) which stands
proudly above the quaint village of Castelnaud,
is of one of the best known and most visited
châteaux in the region, if not in France. It has
a colourful history and was involved in a
tug-of-war between the English and the French
during the 100 year war. Following a 3 week
siege in 1442, it eventually fell back into the
hands of the French. There are various work
-shops that take place during the school
holidays if you have kids in tow. You’ll get
some of the best views down the Dordogne
valley. 》Check out the top tips for visiting the
Chateau de Castelnaud here ! 《
Château de Beynac
On the opposite bank of the Dordogne river,
you’ll find the Château de Beynac, ancient
arch rival to the Château de Castelnaud during
the Middle Ages. This domineering 12th
century fortress is one of the best preserved
castles around and perches high on the rocky
promontory above the Dordogne. Richard
Lionheart is said to have scaled the steep cliff
from below and (briefly) conquered the
château! In 1962, the castle went into private
hands when it was bought and restored by
Lucien Grosso. You may also recognise it from
the silver screen as it featured in a number of
films including the hilarious The Visitors 2
and The Joan of Arc Film.
Château des Milandes or
Josephine Baker Castle
This chateau is one of our favourites! It’s
known both as the Josephine Baker Castle
and the Château des Milandes (the name of
the local town). The origins of the castle date
back to 1489 when Lord François de Caumont
had it built for his wife who disliked the
austere fortress-like feel of the Château de
Castelnaud.
Many years later, Josephine Baker fell in love
with this fairytale castle and bought it 1947.
She lived there with her 12 strong rainbow
tribe of adopted children for several years
before she went bankrupt and sadly lost her
beloved home. We particularly love her stage
show outfits, including her famous iconic
banana skirt, and other clothes as well as
learning about her incredible role within the
French resistance.
Château de Commarque
This spectacular site is much more than just a
solitary castle, it’s the ruins of a small
medieval village and some troglodyte caves
thrown in for fun. Park up in the small car park
(maybe use the toilets as there are none down
at the castle), then venture down the tree lined
10-minute walk – it’s like a time tunnel to a
different age. On arrival, the greenery clears to
reveal the majestic sight of a honey coloured
stone fortification perched high on a rocky
hillside.
Château de Hautefort
The Château de Hautefort looks like
it’s come straight out of a fairytale.
In fact, it was used as a filming
location for the classic Cinderella
story in “Forever After” which
starred the actress Drew Barrymore.
Located in the north of the Dordogne,
in the Perigord Blanc, this castle was
once a medieval fortress but was
transformed into an elegant stately
home in the 17th century.
There’s a fine collection of 17th and
18th century furniture, however, what
impressed us most were the formal
gardens. They were designed by the
renowned 19th century landscape
architect, Count de Choulot and
feature a mix of French and English-
style gardens. The local village is
charming and is also worth a visit.
Explore Prehistoric Caves
& Chasms
You’re in the birth cradle of European
civilization so make the most of this
opportunity and find out more about the world
of Cro Magnon! Before you know it, you’ll be
able to tell youself the difference between
Neanderthal man and Homo Sapiens.
Lascaux IV
Back in the 1940’s a group of school boys,
discovered by chance, the entrance to the
world-famous Lascaux cave which houses
some incredible prehistoric art. The original
cave soon became a popular tourist attraction,
but because of concerns around the damaging
effects of this, it was closed to the public.
Since then, various replicas have been created,
but the latest iteration Lascaux 4 is seriously
worth a visit.
The brand-new Lascaux experience starts with
the exterior of the ultra-modern multi-million-
pound visitor centre just outside of Montignac.
Your visit will take you on a journey back in
time some 20,000 years to the prehistoric
period with the use of cutting-edge
multimedia technology including 3D cinema.
Font de Gaume
If you enjoyed visiting Lascaux then you will
love discovering the very special Font de
Gaume in the attractive town of Les Eyzies.
There are no replica prehistoric paintings here
– everything you see is 20,000 years old!
In order to experience something that only the
very privileged do, it’s an early start, as the
only way to view this marvel is to queue before
the doors open (although there are 26 advance
purchase tickets available). It’s a first come
first served situation because tour numbers
are very limited. This is to restrict damage to
the ancient artworks.
Tours are available in English and French with
an expert guide, who will take you on the short
walk up to the unassuming cave entrance.
Once inside you can’t fail to be impressed by
the quality and sheer volume of paintings of
animals, as you move through the various
galleries. There are very few sites like this in
Europe open to the public as most have
followed Lascaux’s lead by closing their doors.
We were warned by our guide that conditions
in the cave are constantly monitored and if
levels of certain gases reach an unsafe level
for the paintings then the doors will be firmly
bolted. We feel very privileged.
Gouffre de Proumeyssac
A short drive from the market town of Le
Bugue is the amazing natural phenomenon
that is the Gouffre de Proumeyssac. This deep
underground cavern has been described as a
‘Crystal Cathedral’ due to its spectacular
limestone rock formations. ViewYouTubehere.
The guided tour takes you down a series of
ramps followed by a longish dark tunnel until
you enter the cave itself. Once inside the lights
are turned up and the fascinating limestone
structures are revealed in all their glory.
Rain water drips from the ceiling into the cave
pools and as it does, it builds some amazing
calcite structures. The most famous feature
being the giant La Meduse natural sculpture
along with many smaller, but equally
impressive stalactites and stalagmites.
Gotten de Rouffignac Grotte de
Rouffignac
This amazing system of caves (8km of
passageways) is located 20 minutes’ drive
from the market town of Le Bugue and
contains around 250 cave paintings! There is a
large car park in the woods and it’s only a short
walk to the entrance of the cave where you can
buy tickets.
The main cavern is so deep underground that
it is necessary to take a small electric train to
avoid a long walk – great fun for the kids. On
arrival you will quickly realise why this grotte
is known as the cave of a hundred mammoths.
The animal art is everywhere and you can
clearly see how the artist has used the natural
relief of the rock to create a 3D effect. Not
bad for 13,000 years ago.
Discover Gardens
The Dordogne is synonymous with lush green
landscape (we do get our fair share of rain in
the winter!) and there are some stunning
formal gardens in the region.
Les Jardins Suspendus
de Marqueyssac
The Hanging Gardens of Marqueyssac are one
of the most beautiful romantic gardens of
France. ( click here for English) They perch
high above the Dordogne Valley and include
paths bordered by 150,000 hand-pruned
boxwoods, breathtaking viewpoints, rock
gardens, waterfalls, and verdant glades. From
the belvedere 400 feet above the river, there’s
an exceptional view of the Valley.
In the summer, every Thursday, the gardens
turn into a most romantic setting with their
‘soirée chandelle’ when the entire gardens are
filled with candle lights. It’s a fabulous
experience for the entire family – there is
music, entertainment. Be sure to include this
unique experience in your Dordogne itinerary!
Les Jardins d’Eyrignac
Atmospheric ambiance at the Jardins
d'Eyrignac. The White Picnic evenings in July
and August are a must !
Located 13km from Sarlat on a hilltop plateau,
these beautiful formal gardens are set around
an old manor house and famous for its 300
fabulous topiary sculptures. Shrubs, trees and
hedges have been clipped to produce some
very striking designs. The house and its
gardens have been in the same family for 22
generations, which gives a visit a very
personal and friendly feel.
There is an excellent restaurant where you can
have a sophisticated lunch or just coffee and
cake and a classy little giftshop at the
entrance. The highlight for some, are the
unique evening parties organised in July and
August, where everyone is requested to wear
white.
Go Canoeing
This is another must if you’re visiting the
Dordogne! Canoeing is a wonderful way to
discover the area and can be a great family
outing. There are plenty of pick up points
along both the Dordogne and the Vézère rivers
with a choice of runs ranging from a short 4
kms to a more challenging 25 kms. You can
take a picnic along with you or simply stop off
now again and enjoy a beer and an ice-cream.
The companies will either drive you upstream
in their buses and you canoe down or you
leave from their base and you aim for a
specific pick up time at a specific spot. We
personally prefer the option of being driven
upstream first so that we can take as long as
we like to reach the canoe base on the return
trip.
You have the choice between canoeing on the
Dordogne river or the Vézère river. The choice
is largely down to personal preference – the
Vézere offers much wilder scenery (think
Canada), whereas the Dordogne offers more
picturesque scenery (châteaux, villages).
There are LOTS of canoe companies, however,
you might want to consider Canosphère who
offer lots of different routes on the Dordogne
river and Canoë Loisirs:
1. From Vitrac: Dordogne River Canoe
Rental (Canoë Loisirs)
- Canoe ride at the foot of castles: Cénac to Les Milandes (our favourite!)
- The History route by canoe on the Dordogne : Carsac – Beynac (Canosphère)
- Canoe trip along Cliffs in Dordogne : Carsac – Cénac (Canosphère)
Trip on a Gabarre
A trip on a Gabarre is such a great way to get a
different vantage point of the Dordogne. A
‘gabarre’ is a flat-bottomed wooden boat that
was used in the past to transport goods along
the river. There are two main gabarre trip
options: one from Beynac (children are FREE
in the mornings) and la Roque-Gageac (les
Gabarres Norbert). You’ll enjoy some
beautiful views across the river and you’ll be
able to find out more about the local history
as all visitors are provided with an audio guide.
River Swimming & Paddling
Limeuil is a popular spot for a paddle and a swim.
It's also the confluence of the Vézère and Dordog
river.
There’s nothing quite like wild swimming and a
dip in the river is just what you need to cool yourself
down on a sunny day. Why not grab yourself a
baguette, head to one of the 3 rivers and jump in
the water for a swim or a paddle. There is plenty of
choice of places to swim, however, here are our
favourite spots:
Castelnaud (and why not combine it with a trip
to the château)
Limeuil – the picturesque village sits next to
the point where both rivers meet. There’s a
large parking at the entrance to the village. It’s
a perfect spot for young children to paddle
safely in the water.
Le Coux – this place is much more off-the-
beaten track and is a spot where lots of locals
head to. It’s worth going to in the summer as
there’s a life-guard on duty (apart from lunch
-time of course – we’re in France after all, lol!).
Indulge in Local Gastronomy
The Dordogne is known as foodie heaven! It’s
one of the gastronomic capitals of France
and with very good reason. Foie gras, duck
confit, gizzards, truffles, walnut tarts… your
taste buds will be tantalized but be warned,
you may leave with a few extra pounds or
kilos! There’s an incredible respect for the
terroir and a deep appreciation of nature’s
bounty in this region.
Truffle Tours
***** Sadly these tours are no longer available
as Edouard has retired ******
The Dordogne is not only the land of chateaux
but also of truffles (not the chocolate type)
and foie gras. The Périgord Noir part of the
Dordogne takes its name from the oak trees
that are famous for producing truffles, the
black diamond.
If you fancy learning a little more about this
famous black diamond, sign up for a spot on a
truffle tour. We strongly recommend joining the
Truffe-en-Perigord’s tour run by Edouard and
his wife, Carole. Edouard is passionate,
exuberant, full of life and will have you heading
home determined to start your own truffle
orchard! He provides entertaining, informative,
fun truffle tours and will teach you about the
different types of truffles, how to find them and
will give you a demonstration with his adorable
border collie, Lino. More about truffles here.
Wine Tasting
Many of the vineyards were destroyed by the
phylloxera virus in the late 19th century,
however, the area around Bergerac is
brimming with vineyards and tasty wines just
waiting for you to try out.
Pécharmant
Château Feely
Clos les Verdots
Monbazillac wine
Regional Cookery Class
Cauliflower velouté with grated truffles- yum! 😋
If you fancy doing something completely
unique, then why not sign up to a regional
cookery course with Ian, chef extraordinaire,
at CookDordogne.
Ian from Le Chèvrefeuille offers fullday courses
for adults as well as junior cookery courses for
children and their parents. Ian’s passion and
enthusiasm for local produce, getting every
-one into cooking and healthy eating is
infectious. He is a natural teacher and knows
exactly how to tailor the course to his
audience. Ian has a fun, light-hearted and
encouraging teaching style.
Visit Local Markets
Become one of the locals and trade in a super-
market shop for a visit to a real French market.
Some excellent local produce is available from
bread cooked in a traditional wood fire to locally
grown strawberries. Here’s a list of all the
weekly markets that take place in the Périgord
noir.
Here are some of our favourites:
St Cyprien (Sundays)
The sleepy town of St Cyprien comes to life on
a Sunday morning. Row up row of stalls set up
the length and breadth of the high street.
You’ll find fruit, vegetables, foie gras, duck,
cheeses, fish, seafood, vietnamese springrolls,
a charming wine truck, clothes as well as cute
keepsakes and so much more. The market
takes place all year round and swells in the
summer months. It’s hugely popular and we
strongly recommend getting there early in the
morning to avoid the crowds!
Le Bugue (Tuesdays)
The weekly market in Le Bugue takes place on
a Tuesday and has done so for the past 700
years! If you head to the covered market area –
la halle – you’ll find a plaque that explains the
history of the market. Back in 1319, the king of
France François V, decided that the market
would take place on a Tuesday every week and
this tradition still holds today. Mind blowing
right? The market centres around the main
square, la halle and rue de Paris where almost
300 stallholders gather on a weekly basis –
come rain or shine. It’s a well known market
and it’s great reputation is well deserved.
Sarlat (Saturdays & Wednesdays)
Sarlat’s market is famous in the region and
with good reason. Head there on a Wednesday
or Saturday for your fill of fresh produce, local
crafts, clothes, artisanal products. The food
section is focused in the old town running from
the cathedral to the town square (Place de la
Liberté). Sarlat gets very busy on market days
– particularly during the summer months so
head there early to beat the crowds.
You might want to consider joining this 2 hour
walking tour of Sarlat that takes place on a
Saturday and includes a guided visit to the
market. You’ll get the opportunity to sample
some regional produce including duck,
cheese, walnut and wine!
Explore Villages & Towns
You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to
quaint, picturesque towns and villages. In fact,
the region is home to 10 of the 152 most
beautiful villages of France! Here are our
must-visit favourites:
Map of Must-Visit Towns & Villages
in the Dordogne
Here’s handy map with the location
of all the towns and villages listed
below. It’ll allow you to quickly
identify where the places are located
and will help you plan your itinerary.
Sarlat
The impossibly beautifully medieval town is
the jewel in the crown of the lovely Dordogne.
If possible, I recommend visiting out of high
season as tourists flock here in July and
August, streets are crowded, and parking can
be an issue. Chances are you may have seen
the town before, as it’s a favourite location
for movie makers, the 1998 fantasy movie
‘Ever After’ starring Drew Barrymore was
shot here.
As mentioned above, you might want to
consider joining this 2 hour walking tour of
Sarlat that takes place on a Saturday and
includes a guided visit to the market. You’ll get
the opportunity to sample some regional
produce including duck, cheese, walnut and
wine.
Beynac
The town of Beynac hugs the hillside under the
chateau and is also located next to the river. A
walk through the village (or rather ‘up’ the
village) isn’t for the faint-hearted as the village
hugs the side of the cliff and is composed of
rather steep alleys. But you’ll be rewarded with
stunning views across the Dordogne valley
after your walk up to the chateau. You can
choose to take a trip on a Gabarre (kids go
free in the morning), sit by river and take in the
scenery, take a more vigorous walk up through
the cobbled alleys to visit the famous château
(apparently Richard Lionheart scaled the cliff
and briefly conquered the chateau during the
100 year war!)
Castelnaud
Two for the price of one – an impressive
château and a beautifully preserved medieval
village. Castelnaud-La-Chapelle (shortened
to Castelnaud) is located about 10kms from
Sarlat and is another one of the 10 ‘most
beautiful villages’ of France. The village sits
under the shadow of the imposing fortress
and makes for a great day out. Park up in the
municipal car park near the river and enjoy a
paddle in the Dordogne or the Céou – the
village sits at the confluence of both rivers.
There are restaurants, cafés and a Spar by the
river and alternatively, hike up the village til
you reach the top. Here you’ll be rewarded
with magnificent panoramic views of the
Dordogne valley and some restaurants where
you can rest your weary legs and indulge in
a refreshment or two.
La Roque-Gageac
La Roque-Gageac is classed as one of ‘Les
Beaux Villages de France’ and with good
reason.
It recently featured in a French programme on
La 5 and its reputation is well deserved. It’s
nestled between the river and the limestone
cliffs with dwellings which are literally carved
into the rock face. You can walk along the
water front or explore the backstreets of
the village. Alternatively, jump aboard a
gabarre boat for a wonderful view of the
village from the river.
Domme
The incredible medieval town of Domme is
perched high on top of a cliff top, with stunning
views of the Dordogne valley and river. It was
originally founded 1281 and was an important
Bastide during the 100 years’ war. The ancient
fortified walls are famous for holding the
Knights Templar when they were imprisoned
here in 1307. You can even see some of the
brilliant graffiti that they etched in the stone,
during their incarceration.
After wandering through the postcard perfect
streets lined with interesting shops and
restaurant, I recommend visiting the tourist
office. From here you can purchase tickets for
the Templar graffiti, the little tourist train and
the amazing cave under the town square. Every
Thursday, there is lovely market on the main e
splanade lined with shady trees.
Les Eyzies (full name is ‘Les Eyzie-de-Tayac’)
This beautiful little town is famous throughout
France as the capital of prehistory. It’s located
on the banks of the Vézère river with many of
its traditional houses built into a massive lime
-stone cliff… this is certainly a unique place to
visit. If you wish to learn a little about life
thousands of years ago in this area, then
visit the excellent National Prehistory
Museum. I also recommend visiting the
fantastic font de Gaume cave network
with its mind blowing 17,000-year-old
cave paintings.
Belves
Classified as one of the most beautiful villages
in France, this 11th century medieval town
perches high on a rocky promontory in the
Perigord noir. This well-preserved bastide town
is located approximately 20kms south of
Sarlat and is home to a bustling market. We
recommend exploring the town including a
visit to the unique troglodyte dwellings
situated underground, directly below the
market place.
Limeuil
This incredibly attractive village is sited high
on a hill and is surrounded by strong walls which give the impression of a fairy tale fortress. It’s very easy to imagine medieval knights walking under the historic archway and climbing cobbled street to the village square above. Once you reach the top, there is the opportunity to visit the Panoramic Gardens of Limeuil, a green fingered delight with wonderful views. But for most though, the highlight is the shady beach below where the Dordogne and the Vézère river meet, throw in a view of a picturesque stone bridge and you have an ideal picnic spot.
Monpazier
Founded in 1284 by Edward I, King of England,
Monpazier is classified as one of the most
beautiful villages of France. It’s a beautifully
preserved Bastide town that dates back
almost 900 years. Located in the Périgord
Pourpre, it’s closer to Bergerac and the land
of wine.
Brantôme
Brantôme is often referred to as the Venice of
the Dordogne. Located in the north of the
department, the river Dronne runs through it
encircling a large part of the town. You’ll find
the impressive Benedictine Abbey on the
river’s edge. Head there on a Friday, market
day, when the town comes to life. There are
a number of lovely cafes and restaurants.
St Léon-sur-Vézère
Visiting the pretty French village of
St-Leon-sur-Vézère, another of the
‘plus beaux villages de France’, is
just like stepping back in time. Life
is focused around the meandering and
gently moving river, perfect for a spot of
swimming in the summer. On its banks
you will find a delightful Romanesque
church, an impressive chateau and a
number of restaurants offering a range
of local gastronomic experiences.
Alternatively, just wander around the
narrow and character filled streets,
admiring ancient buildings and
beautiful gardens.
Evening Gourmet Markets
The Marchés Gourmands are a
wonderful experience involving locals
and tourists alike gathering around
long tables and enjoying food and wine
from the numerous popup style
restaurants and food trucks. Our
favourite is the one set in picturesque
Audrix with stunning views across
the Dordogne Valley
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