[Bilingual, English & Chinese]
(Source: Xinmin Evening News; Author: He Hua.)
Many foods originally produced in China crossed the sea to Nanyang. After being "localized", they became delicacies with Nanyang characteristics. . Lei Cha Rice can be called a vegetable set meal, or it can be called a vegetable buffet. At least ten kinds of chopped vegetables are enough, otherwise it will lose its style and taste.
The first time I ate Hakka Lei Cha Rice was at the home of my teacher, Professor Wang Runhua. The guests of honor that day were university scholars Professor Liu Cunren and Professor Yuan Xingpei, and I was the last to accompany them. Wu Meizhen, the younger brother and sister of Shimu Danying, is a master at making lei cha rice, and she was the chef that day. Generally speaking, vegetables with green color, low water content and strong fragrance can be used, such as celery, long cowpea, leek, green cabbage, cabbage, lettuce, kale, green beans, etc., but there are two things that should not be missing: Aberdeen and four-cornered beans, see photo (note, not green beans). There are a lot of sarawak in East Malaysia, and the locals also call it mani dish (from the transliteration of Malay word Manis , meaning sweet ). I have been to Kuching in Sarawak, but unfortunately I didn’t pay attention at that time. It is said that people in Kuching like to use mani leaves 🍃 to stir-fry with egg. It must be delicious.
The cost of Lei Cha Rice is not high, but it takes effort and it is not easy to eat once. These vegetables must be finely chopped, and then fried with a small amount of oil. They must be fried and eaten immediately, and those made at noon cannot be eaten at night. Therefore, first-class lei cha rice can only be eaten at home. Although lei cha rice is also sold in restaurants or food courts, the variety and freshness of vegetables are not comparable to those at home.
In addition to vegetables, there are four other things that are indispensable: fried peanuts without the clothes (remember, the clothes must be removed), diced dried tofu, dried radish (preserved), and sautéed dried shrimps (kaiyang). In fact, apart from dried shrimp, Lei Cha Rice should be very suitable for vegetarians. When the vegetables mentioned above are stir-fried, you can add no salt or only a little salt, because these four kinds of food can be used as condiments.
Since Lei Cha Rice evolved from Lei Cha, of course it cannot do without a bowl of tea soup. Strictly speaking, this bowl of Lei Cha soup is the key. Put peanuts, sesame seeds, tea leaves, white pepper, mint leaves, basil (must have basil), etc. in a bowl, grind them into fine powder, and then brew them with boiling water (or 90-degree water). The color is green like moss, and the taste is bitter and fragrant. Not everyone can adapt to this bowl of soup, but those who like it like it very much, such as me.
The way of eating lei cha rice is a bit like a "carnival". It is a carnival of vegetables. Because there is no wine or meat, this carnival has become a pure feast. There are more than a dozen dishes covering the table, and each person puts half a bowl of rice in a large bowl, and adds the same dish into it, and mixes it evenly, adding it while eating, eating more and more, endlessly, as if there is more than one year auspicious.
Leicha soup can be drunk alone; if you are of a high rank, you can pour it into a rice bowl and eat it mixed with vegetables and rice. A few years ago, there was a shop selling lei cha rice on Zhuoyuan Road near the company. Because many people in the company liked to eat it, they reported the number of people packing every morning, and the stall owner drove them over at noon. In those days, lunch was settled like this. The good times didn't last long. Later, the building was refurbished, and the rent probably went up, so the Lei Cha Rice stall was closed.
Not all Hakkas have the habit of eating Lei Cha. In Southeast Asia, like Singapore and Malaysia (including Sarawak and Sabah), only He Po people can cook Lei Cha. Traditional He Po people uses a big bowl which has very rough inner surface and a cleaned guava stick for grinding the ingredients into fine powder.
He Po is a branch of the Hakka people, known as "He Po Ke". I know that Gala Pashawi in Kulai, Malaysia is a traditional "He Po Ke" new village. The Lei Cha Rice there is very famous, and I really want to try it once. 😋
1. 漂洋过海的南洋擂茶饭
来源：新民晚报 作者：何华
中国原产的很多食物漂洋过海到了南洋，经过“本土化”之后，就成了具有南洋特色的美食，譬如擂茶到了新马，由液体的茶饮，成了实实在在的擂茶饭 。 擂茶饭可谓蔬菜套餐，或可称之为蔬菜自助餐，至少要十样切碎的蔬菜才够规模，否则就少了气派和滋味。
我第一次吃客家擂茶饭是在我的老师王润华教授家里，那天的主宾是大学者柳存仁教授和袁行霈教授，我忝陪末座。 师母淡莹的弟妹吴美珍是制作擂茶饭的高手，那天就由她主厨。 一般来说，青色的、水分少的、香味浓的蔬菜都可采用，譬如芹菜、长豇豆、韭菜、青菜、卷心菜、油麦菜、芥兰、四季豆等等，但有两样最好不要缺少： 树仔菜和四角豆（注意，不是四季豆）。 树仔菜，东马的沙捞越很多，当地人也叫它玛尼菜（源自马来文Manis的音译），沙捞越的古晋我去过，可惜当时没有留心，据说古晋人喜欢用树仔菜炒 鸡蛋。 估计一定好吃。
擂茶饭成本不高，但费功夫，吃一次也不容易。 这些蔬菜一定要切得很碎，再用少量油炒熟，必须现炒现吃，中午做的不可留到晚上吃。 所以，一流的擂茶饭只有在家里才能吃到，餐馆或食阁里虽也有擂茶饭售卖，但蔬菜的种类和新鲜程度都没法和家里比。
除了蔬菜，还有四样东西不可或缺：炒熟去衣（记得，必须去衣）的花生米、豆干丁、萝卜干碎粒（菜脯）、爆香的虾米（开洋）。 其实，除了虾米，擂茶饭应该非常适合素食者。 上面提到的那些蔬菜翻炒时，可以不用加盐或只加少许盐，因为这四种食物可做调味品。
擂茶饭既从擂茶演化而来，它当然少不了一碗茶汤，严格来说，这碗擂茶汤是关键。 将花生、芝麻、茶叶、白胡椒、薄荷叶、九层塔（必须要有九层塔）等盛放在钵中，擂磨成细粉，再用开水（或九十度水）冲泡即成。 颜色碧绿如青苔，味道苦中带香，不是每个人能适应这碗汤，但喜欢它的就非常喜欢，譬如我。
擂茶饭的吃法很有点“嘉年华会”的意思，是蔬菜的狂欢节，因没有酒肉，这狂欢也便成了清欢。 十多个菜盘子布满一桌，每人用大海碗盛上小半碗米饭，一样一样加菜进去，翻拌均称，一边吃一边加，越吃越多，生生不息，似乎有着年年有余 的吉利。
擂茶汤，可以单独喝；段位高的，可以把它倒进饭碗里，和菜饭拌着吃。 若干年前，公司附近的卓源路有一家卖擂茶饭的，因为公司不少人爱吃，每天上午报上打包人数，摊位老板中午开车送来，那些日子，午餐就这样解决了。 好景不长，后来建筑翻新，大概租金涨了，擂茶饭摊位也就关闭了。
并不是所有客家人都有吃擂茶的习惯，在东南亚，像新加坡、马来西亚（包括沙捞越、沙巴），只有河婆人才会煮擂茶。传统的河婆族使用内表面非常粗糙的大碗和干净的番石榴棒将原料研磨成细粉。
河婆是客家人的一支，称为“河婆客”。 我知道马来西亚古来的加拉巴沙威，是一个传统的“河婆客”新村，那里的擂茶饭非常有名，很想去品尝一次。
(Hanyu pinyin)
Piāo yángguò hǎi de nányáng léi cháfàn
láiyuán: Xīnmín wǎnbào zuòzhě: Hé huá
zhōngguó yuán chǎn de hěnduō shíwù piāo yángguò hǎi dàole nányáng, jīngguò “běntǔ huà” zhīhòu, jiù chéngle jùyǒu nányáng tèsè dì měishí, pìrú léi chá dàole xīn mǎ, yóu yètǐ de chá yǐn, chéngle shí shízài zài de léi cháfàn. Léi cháfàn kěwèi shūcài tàocān, huò kě chēng zhī wèi shūcài zìzhùcān, zhìshǎo yào shí yàng qiē suì de shūcài cái gòu guīmó, fǒuzé jiù shǎole qìpài hé zīwèi.
Wǒ dì yīcì chī kèjiā léi cháfàn shì zài wǒ de lǎoshī wángrùnhuá jiàoshòu jiālǐ, nèitiān de zhǔ bīn shì dàxué zhě liǔcúnrén jiàoshòu hé yuánxíngpèi jiàoshòu, wǒ tiǎn péi mòzuò. Shīmǔ dàn yíng de dìmèi wúměizhēn shì zhìzuò léi cháfàn de gāoshǒu, nèitiān jiù yóu tā zhǔ chú. Yībān lái shuō, qīngsè de, shuǐfèn shǎo de, xiāngwèi nóng de shūcài dōu kě cǎiyòng, pìrú qíncài, zhǎng jiāngdòu, jiǔcài, qīngcài, juǎnxīncài, yóumài cài, jiè lán, sìjì dòu děng děng, dàn yǒu liǎngyàng zuì hǎo bùyào quēshǎo: Shùzǐcài hé sìjiǎo dòu (zhùyì, bùshì sìjì dòu). Shùzǐcài, dōng mǎ de shā lāo yuè hěnduō, dāngdì rén yě jiào tā mǎ ní cài (yuán zì mǎláiwén Manis de yīnyì), shā lāo yuè de gǔ jìn wǒ qùguò, kěxí dāngshí méiyǒu liúxīn, jùshuō gǔ jìn rén xǐhuān yòng shùzǐcài chǎo jīdàn. Gūjì yīdìng hào chī.
Léi cháfàn chéngběn bù gāo, dàn fèi gōngfū, chī yīcì yě bù róngyì. Zhèxiē shūcài yīdìng yào qiè dé hěn suì, zài yòng shǎoliàng yóu chǎo shú, bìxū xiàn chǎo xiàn chī, zhōngwǔ zuò de bùkě liú dào wǎnshàng chī. Suǒyǐ, yīliú de léi cháfàn zhǐyǒu zài jiālǐ cáinéng chī dào, cānguǎn huò shí gé lǐ suī yěyǒu léi cháfàn shòumài, dàn shūcài de zhǒnglèi hé xīnxiān chéngdù dōu méi fǎ hé jiālǐ bǐ.
Chúle shūcài, hái yǒu sì yàng dōngxī bùkě huò quē: Chǎo shú qù yī (jìdé, bìxū qù yī) de huāshēng mǐ, dòu gān dīng, luóbo gān suì lì (cài pú), bào xiāng de xiāmi (kāiyáng). Qíshí, chúle xiāmi, léi cháfàn yīnggāi fēicháng shìhé sùshí zhě. Shàngmiàn tí dào dì nàxiē shūcài fān chǎo shí, kěyǐ bùyòng jiā yán huò zhǐ jiā shǎoxǔ yán, yīnwèi zhè sì zhǒng shíwù kě zuò tiáowèi pǐn.
Léi cháfàn jì cóng léi chá yǎnhuà ér lái, tā dāngrán shàobùliǎo yī wǎn chátāng, yángé lái shuō, zhè wǎn léi chátāng shì guānjiàn. Jiāng huāshēng, zhīma, cháyè, bái hújiāo, bòhé yè, jiǔcéngtǎ (bìxū yào yǒu jiǔcéngtǎ) děng shèng fàng zài bō zhōng, léi mó chéng xì fěn, zài yòng kāishuǐ (huò jiǔshí dù shuǐ) chōng pào jí chéng. Yánsè bìlǜ rú qīngtái, wèidào kǔ zhōng dài xiāng, bùshì měi gèrén néng shìyìng zhè wǎn tāng, dàn xǐhuān tā de jiù fēicháng xǐhuān, pìrú wǒ.
Léi cháfàn de chī fǎ hěn yǒudiǎn “jiāniánhuá huì” de yìsi, shì shūcài de kuánghuān jié, yīn méiyǒu jiǔròu, zhè kuánghuān yě biàn chéngle qīng huān. Shí duō gè cài pán zǐ bù mǎn yī zhuō, měi rén yòng dàhǎi wǎn shèng shàng xiǎobàn wǎn mǐfàn, yīyàng yīyàng jiācài jìnqù, fān bàn jūn chēng, yībiān chī yībiān jiā, yuè chī yuè duō, shēngshēng bù xī, sìhū yǒuzhe nián nián yǒuyú de jílì.
Léi chátāng, kěyǐ dāndú hē; duànwèi gāo de, kěyǐ bǎ tā dào jìn fànwǎn lǐ, huo cài fàn bànzhe chī. Ruògān nián qián, gōngsī fùjìn de zhuō yuán lù yǒu yījiā mài léi cháfàn de, yīnwèi gōngsī bù shǎo rén ài chī, měitiān shàngwǔ bào shàng dǎbāo rénshù, tānwèi lǎobǎn zhōngwǔ kāichē sòng lái, nàxiē rìzi, wǔcān jiù zhèyàng jiějuéle. Hǎojǐng bù cháng, hòulái jiànzhú fānxīn, dàgài zūjīn zhǎngle, léi cháfàn tānwèi yě jiù guānbìle.
Bìng bùshì suǒyǒu kèjiā rén dōu yǒu chī léi chá de xíguàn, zài dōngnányà, xiàng xīnjiāpō, mǎláixīyà (bāokuò shā lāo yuè, shābā), zhǐyǒu hé pó réncái huì zhǔ léi chá. Chuántǒng de hé pó zú shǐyòng nèi biǎomiàn fēicháng cūcāo de dà wǎn hé gānjìng de fān shíliú bàng jiāng yuánliào yánmó chéng xì fěn.
Hé pó shì kèjiā rén de yī zhī, chēng wèi “hé pó kè”. Wǒ zhīdào mǎláixīyà gǔlái de jiā lābā shā wēi, shì yīgè chuántǒng de “hé pó kè” xīncūn, nàlǐ de léi cháfàn fēicháng yǒumíng, hěn xiǎng qù pǐncháng yī cì.
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